IMPORTANT FITTING INSTRUCTIONS
Magnecor High Performance Ignition Cables (unlike conventional resistive carbon conductor ignition wires) use Metallic Inductance Suppressed Conductors and are specifically designed to conduct the total output of the ignition coil (which, with some racing ignition systems can be considerable) and provide RFI (radio frequency interference) and EMI (electro magnetic interference) suppression,
Therefore, to get the best results, care should be taken when fitting Magnecor Ignition Cables.
The most important thing to remember is that all sorts of problems can occur if the metal terminals inside the wires' protective boots are not fully engaged with spark plug tops and distributor and ignition coil connectors.
If you are replacing burnt out resistive carbon conductor ignition wires, it would be worthwhile to check spark plugs, rotor and distributor cap for defects such as cracks and excessively burnt metal arcing points, as well as for a badly worn or broken carbon contact (rubs on center of rotor) inside cap.
Also, check coil tower for cracks and corrosion.
FITTING CABLE SPARK PLUG ENDS:
To properly fit a spark plug boot/terminal assembly (including those with plastic extensions) onto a spark plug, take care to ensure that the assembly is lined up to follow the angle at which the spark plug is fitted into the cylinder head.
Push assembly over spark plug until a click is felt (or heard) as terminal engages the spark plug top. Remember, the metal terminals mouth could be widened if forced over sparkplug top at too much of a wrong angle.
DO NOT stuff silicone grease into boots, as the terminal inside will not lock onto the spark plug top properly, if at all.
On some engines it is almost physically impossible to comfortably get both your hand and the spark plug boot/terminal assembly near the spark plug. The best approach in this situation is to get the spark plug boot/terminal assembly onto the spark plug as best you can and to ensure the metal terminal is engaged over the spark plug top - push and gently rock on the top half of the rubber boot (or top cover on plastic connector). There will be a loose spongy feel, and boot or connector will lift off easily if terminal is not engaging, whereas there will be a more solid feel, and more effort will be needed to pull off boot or connector when terminal is engaging the spark plug top.
FITTING DISTRIBUTOR AND COIL ENDS:
Carefully fit distributor and coil boot/terminal assemblies into (or over) the distributor (and coil) connectors. Make sure that the metal terminals inside the boots are in full contact (engaged) with the metal connecting surfaces of both the distributor and coil connectors.
On older GM distributors it is important to ensure that each and every distributor boot/terminal assembly is pushed down until click is heard or felt.
Do not just place distributor boot/terminal assemblies in position and rely on the retaining ring (if used) to push them down to properly engage cap towers.
Some aftermarket push-in style distributor caps have brass inserts without a top taper that normally allows terminal to be easily pushed into the insert.
Care should be taken to ensure that terminal (particularly the 90° style) is pushed into cap insert straight and centered.
If a resistance is felt (edge of terminal is hung up against un-tapered lip of insert) - don't apply too much force to terminal as it could be distorted and end up being too loose inside the insert.
If necessary, the terminal can be bent back into shape by expanding the section that pushes into the cap insert to its original size.
A worthwhile practice is to again check each wire boot/terminal assembly for proper engagement after the vehicle has run a few miles, as the vibration of the vehicle traveling will quickly loosen up any boot/terminal assembly that's not properly engaged.
REMOVING CABLES FROM SPARK PLUGS:
IMPORTANT PLEASE READ CAREFULLY
To prevent damage to wire, always let engine cool before removing wires from spark plugs, as spark plug tops expand into the terminals inside the spark plug boots when hot, causing the terminals to lock onto the tops.
Try to grab spark plug boot as close as possible to the bottom (at location where terminal is felt to be inside boot) and twist boot slightly to break seal between the boot and spark plug insulator.
Try to pull boot off spark plug without pulling it to one side to prevent terminal from biting into metal spark plug top (some are made from soft metal) making it even more difficult to remove.
With long silicone rubber spark plug boots, avoid pulling at absolute cable end of the boot if engine is hot, as any twisting or rocking can distort and bend the metal terminal inside.
With wires with long extension type spark plug connectors, remove cables from, retainers- before removing--connectors from spartc pings sa as to avoid pulling connectors to one side.
Magnecor's heavy duty terminal can hook onto some soft metal spark plug tops, and with the extra force needed to drag connector off plug top, the bottom seal could be jolted off and/or the floating terminal needed for some connectors could be pulled out of position inside plastic extension tube.
Although Magnecor High Performance Ignition Cables are able to withstand a service heat of 450°F, their jackets and boots could lose their effectiveness if allowed to rest for prolonged periods against headers and turbocharger plumbing that reach temperatures in excess of 1,200°F.
We recommend that cables are routed so that a gap of at least 20mm is left between the cables and any 1,200°F heat source.
Severe heat destruction of spark plug boots too close to headers can rarely be cured by shielding boots. Header heat wraps and coatings etc. can be very effective.
NOTE:
It is possible that the boot/terminal assemblies fitted to the wires enclosed do not resemble the original or replacement ignition wires you are about to replace.
The reason is that we have found (after 20 years experience) that the design and construction used for some original and replacement ignition wires, a well as some original engine designs, cause wire assemblies to become inherently unreliable (the reason you are replacing them), and wherever possible we try not to imitate a design that we know will inevitably fail - particularly with our name on it!
EVERY PART OF ANY MAGNECOR IGNITION CABLE IS AVAILABLE AS A SEPARATE SPARE PART
Manufactured exclusively by Magnecor Australia Limited Farmington Hills, Michigan, USA. Made in USA Rev.09082004
Magnecor High Performance Ignition Cables (unlike conventional resistive carbon conductor ignition wires) use Metallic Inductance Suppressed Conductors and are specifically designed to conduct the total output of the ignition coil (which, with some racing ignition systems can be considerable) and provide RFI (radio frequency interference) and EMI (electro magnetic interference) suppression,
Therefore, to get the best results, care should be taken when fitting Magnecor Ignition Cables.
The most important thing to remember is that all sorts of problems can occur if the metal terminals inside the wires' protective boots are not fully engaged with spark plug tops and distributor and ignition coil connectors.
If you are replacing burnt out resistive carbon conductor ignition wires, it would be worthwhile to check spark plugs, rotor and distributor cap for defects such as cracks and excessively burnt metal arcing points, as well as for a badly worn or broken carbon contact (rubs on center of rotor) inside cap.
Also, check coil tower for cracks and corrosion.
FITTING CABLE SPARK PLUG ENDS:
To properly fit a spark plug boot/terminal assembly (including those with plastic extensions) onto a spark plug, take care to ensure that the assembly is lined up to follow the angle at which the spark plug is fitted into the cylinder head.
Push assembly over spark plug until a click is felt (or heard) as terminal engages the spark plug top. Remember, the metal terminals mouth could be widened if forced over sparkplug top at too much of a wrong angle.
DO NOT stuff silicone grease into boots, as the terminal inside will not lock onto the spark plug top properly, if at all.
On some engines it is almost physically impossible to comfortably get both your hand and the spark plug boot/terminal assembly near the spark plug. The best approach in this situation is to get the spark plug boot/terminal assembly onto the spark plug as best you can and to ensure the metal terminal is engaged over the spark plug top - push and gently rock on the top half of the rubber boot (or top cover on plastic connector). There will be a loose spongy feel, and boot or connector will lift off easily if terminal is not engaging, whereas there will be a more solid feel, and more effort will be needed to pull off boot or connector when terminal is engaging the spark plug top.
FITTING DISTRIBUTOR AND COIL ENDS:
Carefully fit distributor and coil boot/terminal assemblies into (or over) the distributor (and coil) connectors. Make sure that the metal terminals inside the boots are in full contact (engaged) with the metal connecting surfaces of both the distributor and coil connectors.
On older GM distributors it is important to ensure that each and every distributor boot/terminal assembly is pushed down until click is heard or felt.
Do not just place distributor boot/terminal assemblies in position and rely on the retaining ring (if used) to push them down to properly engage cap towers.
Some aftermarket push-in style distributor caps have brass inserts without a top taper that normally allows terminal to be easily pushed into the insert.
Care should be taken to ensure that terminal (particularly the 90° style) is pushed into cap insert straight and centered.
If a resistance is felt (edge of terminal is hung up against un-tapered lip of insert) - don't apply too much force to terminal as it could be distorted and end up being too loose inside the insert.
If necessary, the terminal can be bent back into shape by expanding the section that pushes into the cap insert to its original size.
A worthwhile practice is to again check each wire boot/terminal assembly for proper engagement after the vehicle has run a few miles, as the vibration of the vehicle traveling will quickly loosen up any boot/terminal assembly that's not properly engaged.
REMOVING CABLES FROM SPARK PLUGS:
IMPORTANT PLEASE READ CAREFULLY
To prevent damage to wire, always let engine cool before removing wires from spark plugs, as spark plug tops expand into the terminals inside the spark plug boots when hot, causing the terminals to lock onto the tops.
Try to grab spark plug boot as close as possible to the bottom (at location where terminal is felt to be inside boot) and twist boot slightly to break seal between the boot and spark plug insulator.
Try to pull boot off spark plug without pulling it to one side to prevent terminal from biting into metal spark plug top (some are made from soft metal) making it even more difficult to remove.
With long silicone rubber spark plug boots, avoid pulling at absolute cable end of the boot if engine is hot, as any twisting or rocking can distort and bend the metal terminal inside.
With wires with long extension type spark plug connectors, remove cables from, retainers- before removing--connectors from spartc pings sa as to avoid pulling connectors to one side.
Magnecor's heavy duty terminal can hook onto some soft metal spark plug tops, and with the extra force needed to drag connector off plug top, the bottom seal could be jolted off and/or the floating terminal needed for some connectors could be pulled out of position inside plastic extension tube.
Although Magnecor High Performance Ignition Cables are able to withstand a service heat of 450°F, their jackets and boots could lose their effectiveness if allowed to rest for prolonged periods against headers and turbocharger plumbing that reach temperatures in excess of 1,200°F.
We recommend that cables are routed so that a gap of at least 20mm is left between the cables and any 1,200°F heat source.
Severe heat destruction of spark plug boots too close to headers can rarely be cured by shielding boots. Header heat wraps and coatings etc. can be very effective.
NOTE:
It is possible that the boot/terminal assemblies fitted to the wires enclosed do not resemble the original or replacement ignition wires you are about to replace.
The reason is that we have found (after 20 years experience) that the design and construction used for some original and replacement ignition wires, a well as some original engine designs, cause wire assemblies to become inherently unreliable (the reason you are replacing them), and wherever possible we try not to imitate a design that we know will inevitably fail - particularly with our name on it!
EVERY PART OF ANY MAGNECOR IGNITION CABLE IS AVAILABLE AS A SEPARATE SPARE PART
Manufactured exclusively by Magnecor Australia Limited Farmington Hills, Michigan, USA. Made in USA Rev.09082004